To recap Humidity can be a problem in any environment. Not only a cause for discomfort, high humidity levels in an environment is conducive to the growth of mold and mildew within that environment. Dehumidifiers are not only able to create a comfortable living environment, but more importantly create a healthy environment and are a necessary tool against germs and bacteria. If ignored, excess humidity can cause some of the following problems:

•Dust mite populations increase and can cause problems for those suffering from allergies.
•Condensation can form on windows and even on walls causing paint to blister and wallpaper to peel.
•Metals within the environment will begin to rust and wood will begin to warp.
•Condensation in electric items can cause irreparable damage and can even be dangerous.
•Musty smells can develop and a moist environment is uncomfortable for everyone.
•Mold, mildew and fungus grow and thrive in moist environments and are damaging to one’s health.
The ideal relative humidity level within a living environment is at around 50% or less. Dehumidifiers are designed to keep environments humidity-free and our dehumidifier models are more than equipped to handle any and all kinds of humidity-related problems.

In the basement, check the plumbing for leaks and condensation. For a damp rather than leaky basement, applying a waterproof coating (when walls are dry) may help. Use silicone caulk to seal small gaps in the foundation, and hydraulic cement for cracks. More extensive problems may require a sump pump, excavating and waterproofing exterior foundation walls, and installing drains outside.

Fix existing problems

Even the best dehumidifier may not work effectively if too much outside moisture seeps into your home. Begin by checking that gutters aren’t clogged and that downspouts are directing rainwater at least 3 feet away from the house. Grade your property so that rainwater flows away from the foundation. Keep the duct for your clothes dryer properly vented to the outside, making sure that it isn’t clogged or leaking. Run an exhaust fan or open a window when showering, and squeegee or wipe down shower walls afterward. When cooking, use a range hood that vents outdoors.

In the basement, check the plumbing for leaks and condensation. For a damp rather than leaky basement, applying a waterproof coating (when walls are dry) may help. Use silicone caulk to seal small gaps in the foundation, and hydraulic cement for cracks. More extensive problems may require a sump pump, excavating and waterproofing exterior foundation walls, and installing drains outside.

Relative humidity is a percentage that tells you how much moisture is in the air relative to the maximum amount the air can hold at that temperature. For example, when air at a given temperature contains all the water vapor it can hold at that temperature, the relative humidity is 100 per cent. If the humidity is higher than 100 per cent, moisture will begin to condense from the air. If the air contains only half the water it can hold at that temperature, the relative humidity is 50 per cent. Warm air can hold more moisture than cool air. The relative humidity of a sample of air will change as the temperature changes, even though the actual amount of moisture in the sample air does not. For instance, as a sample of air cools, the relative humidity rises. Generally, the right moisture level – the relative humidity – in your house is less than 50%. Having a basement not being cool enough is usually not an issue. Basement temperatures tend to be cool because of the nature of basement construction. In a dry desert climate you could probably get away with using an air conditioner in your basement. In places with heavy rainfall and high humidity an air conditioner would be grossly inadequate because of the extremely high moisture content in the air. This is where a basement dehumidifier that can remove up to 100 pints of water a day is a home saver. Another drawback of using an air conditioner for basement dehumidification is the amount of power they use. Most air conditioners are very energy inefficient. Window air conditioners can range from 500-1,440 watts. For comparison, a refrigerator draws 200-700 watts. You can imagine what a central air unit draws. If an air conditioner gives the number of amps, but not the number of watts, then simply multiply the amps by 120 to get the correct number of watts.

Here is a buyer guide  that I hope will answer some question If you are like me I love  You Tube Videos So start with these two videos first

Imagine enjoying a soda during a particularly warm day. When you pick up the can, you might notice that it’s wet — there’s moisture on the outside. Why is that? As air loses heat, it also begins to lose its ability to retain moisture; the colder surface pulls and collects water from the warmer air, creating condensation. Your dehumidifier does pretty much the same thing. Most dehumidifiers can be broken down into five component parts:

• Fan Compressor — This compresses and expands a refrigerant gas like freon to cool the dehumidifier’s coils.
• Reheater — This captures and collects heat that the cooling process generates.
• Compressor cooling coils
• Reservoir

How do all these parts fit together to pull moisture from the air? It’s fairly simple, but very effective:

1. A fan collects air from the surrounding area and pulls it into the dehumidifier.
2. As the air passes through, it comes into contact with the dehumidifier’s cooled coils. These coils use condensation to pull moisture from the air. The collected moisture remains on the coils and drips into the dehumidifier’s reservoir.
3. The dehumidifier reheats the air and exhausts it back into the room.

A dehumidifier usually has a removable plastic bucket for a reservoir; most buckets also have a place where you can hook up a hose so the collected water can drain straight into a floor drain or pump. This frees you from having to remember to dump out the water. But don’t worry too much about the reservoir overflowing — most dehumidifiers also have an automatic shut-off. If you’re using a dehumidifier in extremely moist conditions, however, or if you need to keep your dehumidifier on all the time, you should look into a unit with a built-in condensate pump, which regularly pumps water out of the unit’s reservoir rather than simply relying on gravity to empty it as a hose does.

Many dehumidifiers also have a humidistat, which allows you to set your desired level of relative humidity. A humidistat has two parts: a sensing element and a relay amplifier. The sensing element includes two alternate metal conductors, and changes in relative humidity will cause electrical resistance between those conductors. The relay amplifier measures this resistance and sends a signal to turn the dehumidifier on or off. These basic components add up to a device that may make your home feel a whole lot better.

Just for the interest of non-technical users, we will provide the rule of thumb sizing for those who are interested mainly in the small portable units.

a) A 25 pints per day unit is able to keep a 150 sq ft x 8 ft ( 14 sq meter x 2.4 m ) space at 55% RH.

b) A 33 pints per day is able to keep a 200 sq ft x 8 ft ( 19 sq meter x 2.4 m ) space at 55% RH.

55% RH is a general minimum requirement for most low level storage. For lower RH level like 45-50%

RH control, reduce the space by 30-35% by floor area. If one unit is too small, go for 2 units, or use the 63-95 pints/day
( Note: the above sizing is based on an unventilated room. Room with central air-conditioning or exhaust is generally difficult to estimate as the volume of Ventilation Air creates a very high humidity load

thank you for reading our article; from the staff at Danby DDR7009RE

Water Removal Options

Most dehumidifiers use a removable plastic bucket and warning lights to indicate when the bucket is full and needs to be emptied. There is typically an automatic shutoff when the bucket is full, so you won’t have to worry about the bucket overflowing.

Most dehumidifiers come with a fitting that allows you to hook a hose directly to the bucket, which can then be directed into a floor drain or sump pump, so there is no need to empty it.

Placement

Most dehumidifiers have top-mounted air discharge and can be placed against walls, but if you do not have top-mounted discharge, make sure the dehumidifier is located away from walls and furniture, so that air can circulate freely around the unit. This will result in better operation of the product.

Doors and windows to the space being dehumidified should be closed while the unit is running. This will ensure that the space is dehumidified as efficiently as possible.

Locate away from sources of dust and dirt (like woodworking equipment), which can clog coils and grills.

Observe all manufacturer warnings regarding electrical safety. In particular, never set up water drainage or disposal near electrical circuits or devices. Make sure the dehumidifier is connected to a properly grounded outlet. Keep drain hoses away from electrical cords and connections.

If you are planning to use a hose to drain the dehumidifier’s water bucket, make sure the unit is located near enough to the floor drain or sump to avoid the need for a long and unwieldy hose. Don’t create a tripping hazard!

Do not be alarmed if the air temperature directly around the unit is warmer than in surrounding areas. As a dehumidifier removes moisture from the air, it slightly warms the space around it.

Size: The size of a dehumidifier is generally based on the amount of moisture extracted from the air in 24 hours, which is usually measured in pints. Purchase a larger capacity model over a smaller one because larger units can dehumidify more area in a shorter amount of time. Furthermore, a dehumidifier with a smaller capacity may run continuously and still not lower the humidity to proper levels. The AHAM, or Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers, recommends the following dehumidifier size guidelines:

Portability: If you’re looking to move your dehumidifier from room to room, look for a unit that is compact, lightweight, and includes a carrying handle or rolling casters.

Relative Humidity (RH) and Humidistat

Humidity, the amount of moisture or water vapor in the air, is most often talked about in terms of Relative Humidity (RH). RH is the amount of water vapor actually present in the air compared to the greatest amount of water vapor the air can hold at that temperature. The optimum RH level for a building is generally considered to be between 30% and 50%. Anything above this range may promote bacteria growth. (In colder climates, during the heating season, humidity levels should be in the range of 30% to 40% RH to prevent window condensation.)

Many dehumidifiers include a built-in humidistat, a device that allows you to set the desired RH level that you would like for the room. Once the room reaches the desired RH level, the dehumidifier will cycle on and off automatically to maintain the level.

If your dehumidifier does not have a built-in humidistat, or has a humidistat that does not show RH levels purchase a hygrometer (a gauge that measures relative humidity) separately and hang it near the dehumidifier. The hygrometer will measure RH levels, and enable you to monitor when to turn the dehumidifier on and off.

Automatic Shut-Off: This function will allow you to turn the unit on or off without having to unplug it, and it also prevents overfilling when the storage tank is full.

Low Temperature Operation / Automatic Defrost: If you may be using the dehumidifier in temperatures colder than 65° F, look for a unit that has an anti-frost sensor and can operate in cold temperatures. This prevents quick cycling and frost from accumulating on the sensor.

Storage Tank Capacity: Almost all dehumidifiers have storage tanks for the collected water. If you’re not planning to purchase a model with a continuous drainage port, you’ll have to empty the tank periodically. If the dehumidifier is to be placed in an area where you may not be able to empty it frequently, look for a tank size of at least 15 pints.

Continuous Drainage: Dehumidifiers with a continuous drainage port will eliminate the hassle of emptying a condensation tank. Simply attach a hose to the dehumidifier, and the moisture will drain out through the hose.

If you have a room that is air conditioned, it should not need a dehumidifier — the air conditioner should be doing the dehumidifying for you. But if you don’t have an air conditioner, a dehumidifier is at least some help in the heat.

Here are some tips to remember for maintaining your dehumidifier in tip top shape:

Don’t forget to change the filter once a year so that your machine will run at optimum performance. Clean the water container from time to time to avoid mineral build up in the pan. Inspect the cooling coils for frost or ice build-up, as this can destroy the machine. Don’t short-cycle the cooling system — this means not to turn it off and then on again right away. Wait at least ten minutes to let the pressure in the system equalize. Don’t set the humidistat higher than necessary or it will run constantly.

Air conditioners automatically act as dehumidifiers when they chill the air and thus need to handle the accumulated water as well. Newer window units use the condensing coil and fan to evaporate the accumulated water into the outdoor air, while older units simply allow the water to drip outside. Central air conditioning units need to be connected to a drain.

What is Humidity?
The water vapour contained in the air.

Mechanical/refrigerative dehumidifiers, the most common type, usually work by drawing moist air over a refrigerated coil with a small fan. Since the saturation vapor pressure of water decreases with decreasing temperature, the water in the air condenses, and drips into a collecting bucket. The air is then reheated by the warmer side of the refrigeration coil. This process works best with a strong temperature gradient – since the refrigeration coil usually works at a set temperature, this means that this kind of dehumidifier works best at high ambient temperatures, and may be strongly reduced in effectiveness in colder climates.[1] They are most effective at over 45% relative humidity, higher if the air is cold

Buying a bigger dehumidifier than needed can cut down on running time since it will remove moisture more quickly.

The following is a guide to sizing up your dehumidifier needs:

Here is another chart The capacity that you need depends on several factors, the most important of which are the area that needs to be dehumidified and the humidity level in that area. Please view the following chart to approximate the capacity of the dehumidifier that you need:

While you are doing your research on the Danby DDR7009REE here is a helpful buyer guide report on dehumidifiers and allergies. I can upon the article below and I wanted to share with you because over the weekend we stayed with a friend of my wives. As a walked in the front door of the split level house I could smell the mold and mildew from the basement just 6 steps below.

Sure enough that night the the rest of the weekend my wife’s allergies were acting up…. So here is a nice articule I found on dehumidifier can help with your allergies

The combination of a wet winter and warm spring has helped spur record pollen levels throughout the country, making this a brutal allergy season for many. The National Allergy Bureau, Pollen.com, and Weather.com are among the many sites that provide updated pollen and/or mold information. Based on that data, you might consider limiting your time outdoors on days when pollen levels have soared.

Allergies Sneeze
It’s been a brutal allergy season.
But your best defense is probably to see a doctor to pinpoint which tactics or prescription or over-the-counter medications will work best for you. For more information on dealing with allergies, read “Relief From Springtime Allergies” and use the allergy trouble tracker, both from ConsumerReportsHealth.org.

A Danby DDR7009REe dehumidifier can also help relieve symptoms by controlling the relative humidity inside your home, key during this very wet spring and a good idea in general if your home has such underlying problems as a leaky foundation walls or inadequate ventilation or if you live in a humid area. By keeping the relative humidity indoors below 50 percent, you can keep allergy-inducing dust mites and mold from thriving.
“I like the Pig-Pen analogy here,” says James Sublett, M.D., Chief of Pediatric Allergy at the University of Louisville School of Medicine and a member of the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma, & Immunology, referring to the Peanuts character who’s always surrounded by a dirt-and-dust cloud. “There’s the outside air, with its pollen and other allergens. But there’s also our personal breathing zone, the cloud around us indoors that’s another source of trouble.”

Before you buy a Danby DDR7009REe dehumidifier, figure out what the relative humidity is inside your home by using a hygrometer, which you can pick up for $20 to $40 at an electronics store like Radio Shack or a home center. Save some money by splitting the cost among friends who want to determine the relative-humidity level in their homes

When looking for a dehumidifier consider the following options:

1. Total capacity of water the dehumidifier is capable of removing before full.
2. Automatic shut off when the tank or pan is full.
3. Automatic reset when the drain pan or tanks have been emptied.
4. Size of room the dehumidifier will be servicing.
5. Adjustable humidity controls to vary the amount of moisture removed from the air.
6. Automatic signal light to identify when the dehumidifier is in operation.
7. Hose threads into the drain pan or tank for easy attachment without leaking.

I find the Danby DDR7009REe meets all these nees

For those with allergies, beware of deodorizing filters that can add a fresh scent to the air. Those who have a tendency for allergies can develop new allergies over time. Chemicals and fragrances can be likely culprits.

Once again if you have Danby DDR7009REe it might Help With Your Allergies